annealing questions first timer

[ILMO]

I have just annealed my first cases........

I got a propane torch.... a cheap one for $15.....

put a 41 mag case in a drill to hold the 204 cases.......

turned the case neck shoulder in the flame of the torch.....

room was semi dark.....

stopped just as soon as the brass on the 204 case started to turn a little red

Question....... is this a good procedure.....

the brass on the case neck turned red quicker than the brass on the shoulder.... is this what is supposed to happen..... is it normal for the neck to heat up quicker than the shoulder.....

is my cheap torch too big..... should i get one with a smaller flame.... to direct the heat better.....

thanks in adavance
Randy

[StevenD]

I have just annealed my first cases........

I got a propane torch.... a cheap one for $15.....

put a 41 mag case in a drill to hold the 204 cases.......

turned the case neck shoulder in the flame of the torch.....

room was semi dark.....

stopped just as soon as the brass on the 204 case started to turn a little red

Question....... is this a good procedure.....

the brass on the case neck turned red quicker than the brass on the shoulder.... is this what is supposed to happen..... is it normal for the neck to heat up quicker than the shoulder.....

is my cheap torch too big..... should i get one with a smaller flame.... to direct the heat better.....

thanks in adavance
Randy

Randy,

You might be missing a couple of points in the process. So, I will ask a few questions:

1. Why are you having to anneal the necks? (Generally there is no need to anneal the necks unless you are experiencing problems, or the brass has been reloaded several times and strain hardened.)

2. Have you read up on the subject in any manuals? (There are some good articles and even threads in this forum.

3. How did you cool the case after annealing? (It should be cooled fairly quickly to actually anneal the brass... otherwise you wind up tempering and the process is counter-productive).

4. Were you protecting the head of the case from getting hot to prevent annealing that portion of the case as well?

[Carl Porter]

Cost of the torch doesn't matter much. The Turbo torches produce a more usable flame the the older style but both work.

The rest of the procedure sounds ok.

The neck will heat faster because there is generally less material there AND the light blue cone in the center of the torch flame is pointed at the neck. The tip of that light blue cone is the hottest part of the flame. You can adjust the flame by opening and closing the gas valve on the torch. Less gas generally means a longer heating time. TIme to heat should be kept short so the heat doesn't reach the base of the case. Annealing the shoulders isn't all that necessary either unless you are forming brass for a wildcat. The neck is where the work hardening causes problems and annealing has it's benefit.

Varmint Al has a good website that descibes your method: http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm

There is also another good opinion here:
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html



.

[Jim in Idaho]

I think you're doing it right, but I sure like using a Tempilstik, or Tempillac to know for sure what the temp is. You just mark near the shoulder, and turn the case in the flame until the mark melts. You get very consistent temps and results.

[Jim in Idaho]

Steve...I anneal my cases, and don't wait for problems to show up. I like to use the lee collet dies and find I get better accuracy if the necks are annealed. Maybe it's because they are all the same? Assuming it's done right, it shouldn't hurt them any. Generally, I do mine every half-dozen loadings. I don't like doing them, and wouldn't, without the temperature-indicating mark, though.

[StevenD]

Steve...I anneal my cases, and don't wait for problems to show up. I like to use the lee collet dies and find I get better accuracy if the necks are annealed. Maybe it's because they are all the same? Assuming it's done right, it shouldn't hurt them any. Generally, I do mine every half-dozen loadings. I don't like doing them, and wouldn't, without the temperature-indicating mark, though.

Hey Jim & Mark:

with that philosophy, just curious as to whether there were any symptoms of problems. I usually don't worry too much about annealing unless I begin to see signs of brittle necks, either in splitting or if it just doesn't "feel" as a malleable as it should during resizing.

Consistent neck tension is another reason for annealing, but is generally a step beyond most shooters reasoning for taking on the task. For me, the neck tension issue doesn't come into play. I don't think any of my guns are in that range of accuracy. I have all sporters, some with heavy barrels, but none are much better than 1/4" groups with only 3 shots. Perhaps because of a loose screw behind the butt, but who knows, maybe it's because I haven't dialed in on the uniformity in neck tension.

Happy Shooting.

[ILMO]

is consistent neck tension.........
it seems like i have inconsistent neck tension
on 204 moreso than anything else i load for......
i have different dies for the 204 and ordered a lee collet die.....
but am just trying for that little extra consistency........
It seems like the bullets seat with different pressure on the 204
but i don't have any way to measure it....
it seems like i shoot my best groups with new brass....

R