Scope Mounting Question

[oreo]

I mounted a new scope on an Anschutz 22 rimfire using Leupold rings that fit into the Anschutz grooved receiver. I lapped the rings and the point-of-impact is dead center for windage but 10 inches low at 50 yards, and I'd like to get the scope closer to the bull's eye before using the scope adjustments but I don't know the best alternatives. I never shim the inside of the rings and can't shim under the front ring, so I'd appreciate any advice and council on the best alternatives for centering the scope. Thanks in advance for any help.

[snowsnake]

If you have some try cutting a piece or two of some 35mm film negatives and put it under the scope in the rear ring. Another thing you might try is swapping rings front to back, I have found some of them are not the exact height.

[C Miller]

I'm not a big fan of shimming, I always feel like I'm jakelegging my rifle instead of fixing it. As mentioned swap the rings around first and if that doesn't fix it and your still concerned about moving the POI get some Burris Signature rings and the insert kit and center it. If this were a Savage rimfire I'd say shim it, but hey...this is a Annie, it deserves better than a patch job.

[OrneryCuss]

shimming unless it is a one piece base or to correct ring alignment or a two piece base set that are out of alignment is never the way to go. You are introducing stress into the mounting.

Get a dovetail to weaver base and use some Burris Signature Zee Rings or get the 22 dovetail Signature rings.

[oreo]

Thanks folks; however, I don't think Burris makes Signature rings with inserts for the Annie 11mm dovetail. I couldn't find them advertised anywhere and if they are available, please let me know where I can find them. Thanks again.

[TinMan]

I believe the CZ452 rings are 11mm, and another brand name in 11mm is Lynx, if you are looking at new rings. Also, check the bottoms of the rings to make sure there are no dings or burrs that may be making the rings not seat true. AS mentioned earler, be sure to swap rings front for back, in case there is a difference. Also, are you sure your scope adjustment is zeroed now, and not off center?

[TAJ45]

I just don't remember who makes it and I even own one but can't remember what rifle I have it on either...........:( Too much work and not enough play.

May want to check out Rimfirecentral in case no one here can help you in short order or maybe go to an airgun sight such as Pilkguns. Pretty common item for those folks.

[Paul Workman]

To move POI 10" in 50 yards is going to require approx .020" of (NET) rear lift (for standard 4-4.5" inches between ring centers) to get on target, and add some more if the scope vertical is not centered (.002" per inch at 50 yards).

It sounds like the Burris option is not an option. In that case, I suggest doing what I have done for a over a decade and epoxy the scope in the rings, but first placing the desired shim in the appropriate ring saddle. (See the tech section on using epoxy bedding for scopes.)

In short, take a piece of solder and flatten it to the thickness you want for a shim.
Lay the solder in the bottom of the (rear) ring, along the axis of the scope (after degreasing the rings).
Put enough JB Weld in the bottom of both rings and enough on the rear ring to cover the shim and fill the ring/shim when the scope is pressed against the shim.
After putting release agent on the scope (plain ol Kiwi shoe polish is one of the best I've used), gently press the scope into the epoxy with just enough force to push the scope tube against the shim in the rear ring and the front edge of the front ring.
Install the caps and snug the screw so as to stabilize the scope as the epoxy hardens - you don't want to over-do the pressure and distort the thickness established by the shim, doancha know.
At between 8-10 hours (min & max), remove the ring caps and trim the excess epoxy with a sharp (Exacto) knife, and let the epoxy harden for at least 24 hours before mounting the scope.
Remove the release agent and powder the ring contact area on the scope with resin powder - the kind tennis players use (from any sporting goods store).
Install the scope, but be conservative with the cap pressure to avoid distorting the tube. (The epoxy forms a perfect fit - maximizing the contact area and in conjunction with the resin, the scope will stay put. (The scope on my 375 H&H has never moved!))

Hope this helps!

P.

[C Miller]

Burris has 5, 10, and 20moa inserts which can be reversed giving a possible 40moa @100yds or 20moa @50yds. To correct 10" @ 50 is as simple as a single 20 or a 10 in the front and one reversed on the rear. Am I missing something here? Because sometimes I do :D

[Paul Workman]

Yes, you are missing the point being that as the OP stated, the Burris is not an option with the given dovetail on the Annie. No question the Burris would be the preferred solution, otherwise.

P.

[Crowhunter]

I glass bedded my scope rings. Cover all exposed areas with masking tape. Put release agent on the scope. Put masking tape on the front and back of each ring to create a trough. This also limits the movement of the scope. Put some acraglass in each trough. Place the scope in the rings and bore site it on some distant object. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the scope and gun to hold it in place. But after writing this, I wonder. Could you lap 0.020 off of the front ring?