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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well that's what I'm going to call it for now.:D I went and got the engine this morning. Took an air hose to it then taped it off and hit it with some soap and the power washer to get the barn grime off. I thought it was around 11:1 compression but he told me it was 13:1.:eek: That ain't running on pump gas for sure! Going to tear into it some and re gasket it for sure before it goes in.


And here is what it is going back into.


I bet it's gonna cost some points on my license before its over!:D
 

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13:1, Yikes! I'd be looking for new pistons.

My HS neighbor had a 440 wedge 68 Charger from Grand Spalding Dodge (Mr. Norm) in Chicago back in the day, with their performance tune on it. It was very strong, and I think it was 10:1 or 10.5:1 from the factory, even when you could buy Sunoco 260.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It was George....I pulled the valve covers and noticed the pushrods rubbing on the heads. So I pulled the heads...domed Mopar Performance pistons, the part number says they should be around 11 to 1 so that's a plus. Before it was over it's on the stand tore down to a bare block. The oil had got real nasty inside it along with some moisture. Nothing very bad I just figured now the time to do it right. It's going to get new bearings and rings along with at least a new set of lifters they had some rusty goop in the topside...camshaft looks fine I'm waiting on Crower to email me the specs...looks like with the rockers it's about .590" lift. It also has a gear drive set in it.

Still I only paid $1k for the engine,even with tearing it down it's cheaper than starting from scratch!
 

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Shane, if you don't want to fool with it, i will take it and upgrade my Geo Metro.
I bet it would sound real good thru a set of headers.
 

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Shane, on that Dodge (right?), are the rear wheels/tires bigger than the front? And what model is it? I know you've told us, but I forget. I seem to remember one like that called a Coronet. That right?

Check out these prices on restored Coronets: https://www.carsforsale.com/dodge-coronet-for-sale-in-fremont-ne-C136989-L109649

Wish I lived closer, cause there are a couple car jobs I never was able to get involved in, and I'd love to help. Never did a clutch job and never did a full teardown/build. I did put a rebuild kit in a carb once and that's a job I don't mind giving up the rest of my life. Ha!

Carpman
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Someone before I got the car moved the leaf springs inward I think maybe 1.5" to get the wider tires under it. It has 275/60/15 on it now. It is a pain in the ass to get them off and back on since they are tucked into the wheel wells. I had to put a jack between the frame and axle to get more room to get the tire back in.
It's a 66 Coronet 500 originally had a 383 4bbl. I have the interior tore out waiting to get redone at some point.

I'm very tempted to ditch the holley 4bbl and go to a Fitech injection system. It'll be a little at a time.
 

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It's a 66 Coronet 500 originally had a 383 4bbl. I have the interior tore out waiting to get redone at some point.

I'm very tempted to ditch the holley 4bbl and go to a Fitech injection system. It'll be a little at a time.
In the late 60's, Dr. Wilson was a 70 year old Dr. in Carthage, Tn. whose office was in his home. He loved to make house calls. In his drive way was a 66 or 67 silver Coronet RT with a 440 in it. Word was, it would fly.
 

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With that engine in that body you will have a very strong sleeper!
George, not to be contradictory but, ain't nothin' sleepy about a big block Dodge. :D

11:1 should be a blessing rather than 13:1 in this day and age of gasoline that isn't what it used to be. Premium with 5-7 gallons of AVGAS on a fill up should do nicely. Unless there is a race track near by where you can still buy real fuel.
 

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You may also consider a new cam. My bud picked up a
new Hemi Challenger from Mr. NORM. Had to replace it before 20k. Maybe an anomaly but w the spring rate, oil condition and use before you snagged it, it may be the thing to do.
What is the gear and tranny at this time? If auto, the A999 (check # out) is substantially lighter and I think stronger than the A727. Luv my MOPARs.

Its gonna be FUN, that's for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tom not sure of the gear ratio yet but it is a 8 3/4" rear. The trans is a built 727 with a 3800 stall convertor. It was just gone through and only use it has seen was around the parking lot. They guy never came back and paid for all the work they did to the car and trans. they let it set for about 5 years or so before getting a mechanics lien on it and moving to old neighbors house which is how I found it...I spotted it setting by his barn about 400 yards off the road.:D

It will get all new bearings,rings, and cam/lifters. Not sure if I'll keep the gear drive or go back to a roller chain.

Scott there is a drag strip about 45 minutes away and I think there's a fuel supplier just out of town here that can get it as well....theres a few circle tracks close by as well so those roundy round guys get it there.
 

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Cam

I'd second Tom's thoughts about the cam, at least a close inspection. We wiped a lobe off a new camshaft we got from Chrysler in a small block engine in the '70 Cuda SCCA racer. It was one of the original Gurney-built AAR cars. They had given us the crank assembly, cam and lifters, and block for what was essentially a 340. Supposed to be all Mopar performance parts. We used heads we'd been running all season with no problem. They said the valve springs were too strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The engine machine shop guy dropped off some aluminum heads for me to weld on yesterday and looked at my block and heads...Said he could blast the block hot tank and install new cam bearings and freeze plugs for about $250.
Said he could hot tank the heads and install new guides as well and inspect and clean up any valves if needed for a good price as well.

I pulled carb part yesterday and just noticed it has no list number...only a TRC stamp, which after some research is a custom carb builder. I also failed to notice it has no choke and the airhorn has been milled off. The power valves were replaced with block off plugs and the baseplate was plugged as well. Looked like it was set up for WFO on the strip only. Either a somewhat streetable carb is needed or for not much more than a good carb you can get the 4bbl FI units that will replace the carb.

New cam and lifter run from $200 roughly for a hyd. flat tappet to $1000 for a roller set up.
 

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Oooohh MAN! Shane that looks like a bunch of fun there. I'm sure you will, but check out all the casting numbers of the heads and block and measurements of the bore, deck height, to make sure you have everything compatible there. There are some casting numbers of heads that won't work with certain casting numbers of blocks etc. The pushrods being even close to the heads as you describe is a real alarm for me. Don't recall ever seeing that before...…. but it's been a while.

You'll have fun with that for sure. WD
 
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