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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a couple pics of a Contender forearm I've been working on. It started as a piece of walnut I found on my property a few years ago while cutting firewood. Unfortunately, I cut/split/stacked the whole thing before I realized what I had. That was an expensive 1/2 cord of firewood! :eek:

I managed to salvage a decent sized piece that had no splits. I roughed it square with the table saw and shaped it with my router, dremel tool and a belt sander. This is quite an accomplishment for me. I have no wood-working training at all and just acquired some equipment which I barely know how to use. But I still have all my fingers!



Here it is mounted on my 17HM2 pistol. It's going to get a good sanding and then about 10 coats of tung oil. I plan on installing a sling stud to attach a short bipod for field use. Then I might strip and tung oil the grip. Should be a rock-solid vermin smasher!



Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Me too, but

Me too, but I have another piece of wood left. I may try to make one a little bit longer so the bipod sits further out front. I think it would be more stable.

Charlie
 

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Charlie, I ended up with a forearm

from Boyds on my TC Contender Rifles. What I had a problem with was the way the forearm tightened down to my rifle barrels. What I did was to Epoxy some ¼" washers into the holes in the forearm wood that lifted the forearm clear of the barrel enough to free-float it sorta. I think that makes the barrel shoot a better group. The only contact with the barrel is the two bolt on's on the barrel and the forearm is still good & solid and I think my forearm doesn't bind with the barrel that way. It also lets air circulate all around my barrel and it cools quicker. Good luck on your project. Working with wood and making a beautiful grain stand out is really cool ain't it?
 

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Very nice! & Godsdog = right (as usual)

Nice work, Charlie! looks like it will ride bags, etc just fine!

I played hell trying to get my TC to group well, and consistently until I followed Mike Bellum's (sp?) recommendation - along the lines of Godsdog's recommendation with this exception:

I opened up the screw hole to avoid binding under recoil, etc, and placed a fat rubber "O" ring around the hole for the forearm screw and the hanger on the barrel. Then, with the barrel channel opened up to give the bbl about 3mm of room around the circumference, I filled the channel with black RTV.

The result was a "soft bedding"; allowing some flexing between the barrel and the forearm. My accuracy and consistency problems (due to forearm problems) became a thing of the past (shooting sub 1/2 MOA in my 17 Mach IV), as long as I supported the bbl under the screw. I've been very pleased with the result...Thanks to Mike B!

Show us some pix after you get it completed!

P.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It sure is fun..

I enjoy "tinkering" and this is something I can do over the winter to keep me from getting cabin fever. I had one little mistake... the bit wobbled on me and I ended up drilling the front hole a smidge off-center. I rounded the hole out a little to get the barrel centered and did the rubber O-ring trick already. It does float the barrel nicely. Hadn't thought about the RTV, but might try that at one point.

I have it sanded down to 400 grit, wetted it to get the "whiskers" off and when it dries, probably tonight I'll start the Tung oil treatment. I did tung oil some scrap to see what it would look like and, while it isn't fancy grain, it does look like it's going to come out very nice.

Can't wait to try another. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll have better finished pics up probably Monday.

Charlie
 

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Old thread, I s'pose they deleted the pic links
I'd love to see Charlie's work
Where are ya'll seeing all this stuff that you're commenting on?
Here's some firewood that I salvaged
26871
 
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