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OK, sportsfans: I got a Q:

I've come to use the Imperial sizing wax, and I agree it works pretty well, and is the least 'messy'. I've also come to like to lube the insides of case necks on a few cartridges, mainly the Ackleys. It greatly reduces the effort of pulling the expander button out of the case. So, that means the lube pad/Q-tip deal along with the Imperial wax. or just rolling the neck exterior on the pad along with wiping the neck interior with the lube soaked Q-tip.

So, I'm curious how others do this, if you do it at all.
-West out.
 

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I use powdered graphite. I got an empty snuff can from a buddy that chews, and fill it about 2/3 full with some no.9 shot. Then pour in couple of teaspoons of powered graphite in it, cap it and shake up the contents. That distributes the graphite over the shot. Then, when you need inside lube the necks, just push the case down into the graphite covered shot a couple of times, and you are done. It also lubes the outside of the case also with graphite. For my bolt guns, I segregate the brass to the rifle, and only neck size the neck since those cases are already fireformed to the chamber. Works well for me.
 

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I've used molly with the shot. works great. Now I have Lanolin & Heet 99% alcohol. Spray it on the mouths while they are in the shell holder. Gets inside and out.
 

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I realize I'm 3 weeks behind on replying to this thread, but fairly new here. Anyways, recently discovered you can fairly cheaply make some excellent lube using two simple ingredients, castor oil (or lanolin) and isopropyl alcohol. I used "HEET" for the alcohol since it's cheap and easy to come by and 98.5% alcohol. Mix it up in a spray bottle and spray it on your cases (not excessively) and let the alcohol evaporate off. A very thin layer of oil gets left behind and it works excellent. Would be easy to get inside your case necks too, though I don't worry about that too much. There are some youtube videos of various people making both the lanolin and the castor oil versions of this case lube.
 

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I've used the MIDWAY MICA for decades, I just have the can open on the reloading bench, and dip the neck in the stuff, tap case body on can sides to lose the extra from out of the necks, then size. I don't FL size very often, just to set the shoulders back once in a while. Well, that is, for my accuracy loads.....I resize FL my hunting loads, they cycle through my bolt hunting rifles better than neck sized loads.
 

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I use one of those little plastic gizmos that Forrester sold years ago that has a reservoir that holds graphite or Mica and has 3 nylon brushes standing up and has a slip cover. It seems to work well.
 

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I polish the fired cartridge cases first in a vibratory polisher with ground corn cob with Dillon Case Polish, then use RCBS Case Lube 2 on a nylon bore brush to lube the inside of the neck, and if full length resize, lube the case body with the same lube on a case lube pad. Then the resized cases go into another vibratory polisher with clean dry ground corn cob to clean off the lube. This is done with resizing dies that use a neck sizing button which reduces case neck stretch greatly. For the resizing dies with a neck sizing bushing, I forgo the inside case lube.
 

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OK, sportsfans: I got a Q:

I've come to use the Imperial sizing wax, and I agree it works pretty well, and is the least 'messy'. I've also come to like to lube the insides of case necks on a few cartridges, mainly the Ackleys. It greatly reduces the effort of pulling the expander button out of the case. So, that means the lube pad/Q-tip deal along with the Imperial wax. or just rolling the neck exterior on the pad along with wiping the neck interior with the lube soaked Q-tip.

So, I'm curious how others do this, if you do it at all.
-West out.
On AI cartridges I avoid using expander ball type setups but use bushing dies t0 place tee diameter (and hence the neck tension) exactly as wanted.
An occasional pass through a body die to ensure shoulders are not moving works well.
 
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