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Discussion Starter #1
On most of the knives I'm putting scales on, there will be 2-3 small holes for pins that are 1/16 or a bit larger. Sizes vary. But some knives also have a larger lanyard hole toward the end of the handle, usually about .25" ID. The maker usually glues a brass, copper or nickel silver tube into that lanyard hole, then sands each side flush with the scales. I got to thinking about it and finally realized if I'm out of 1//4" OD brass tubing, I might be able to use some pistol or rifle brass.

I don't reload for near as many calibers as you guys do, so can you help me figure out what firearm cartridges have an OD of .25" or a smidge smaller? Width of most of my knives at the end of the handle is usually just under 1", but in terms of appearance, the brass tube wouldn't necessarily have to go all the way through. In other words, it wouldn't have to be an inch long. If the neck of a bottleneck cartridge is the right diameter, I could likely cut off two necks, put one on each side of the handle, and it would look and work just fine.

Seems to me a .243 or other 6mm cartridge has a neck that might work. But is there a straight wall cartridge that is just under .25" ?

Another option is to drill the lanyard hole larger to fit a certain diameter cartridge, but some knife blanks have darned hard steel, even in the handle area, and they'll eat drill bits like candy.

I know we have at least one machinist in this bunch, so I'm hoping you have some suggestions for me.

Thanks!
 

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Mike, I have Paul, FB's son's dies, an improved Skip Otto series of neck sizing dies. I can do most any dia starting w 7mm on down to .20. All I have to do is dig them out, lube a few cases up and, like High School football:
PUSHEMBACK PUSHEMBACK WAAAAAY BACK.

If things go as planned, I should have enough for a year or two of blade production- depending on when you retire. ;)
If this works out, give me an overall length and I could probably use the HF mini chop saw to length +.
I'll see what I can find tomorrow.
 

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PS. Thinking back to the shipyard, pretty fuzzy, steel that we had initially heat treated to Rc of 60-66, could be drawn back to 40s or less. Maybe 900°F for a while, which may be the problem.
Spitballing:
I would suggest heating the very end of the tang with a Bernzomatic torch or equivalent to cherry, orange if it will actually get that hot (?) and keep it there for as long as possible.

I am basically going on fuzzy memory....so consider this a suggestion of process, NOT definitive times or temps. Obviously, don't let the heat migrate to the blade area. This is where the btu ability of a propane vs acetylene may come up short. Takes too long to get your tang tip drill area hot enough to lose Rc points before it migrates to the blade.
Do some research. Maybe experiment with something expendable.
The saving grace would be the thin profile of the tang.
I may be all wet on this. Proceed with caution.
Maybe someone else will shed some expert light on this.
I'm all ears, errrr eyes. :)
 

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HMR brass would probably produce a piece long enough to fit a knife handle thickness.
 

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I would go a different direction. Most rifle brass is what, 0.012" to 0.014" thick at the neck. That sounds awfully thin for a typical ferrule for a knife. Lengths of brass or SS tubing can be bought pretty cheap at most local hardware or big box stores.

Also, you can drill most hardened steel pretty easily, especially if you have a drill press. The technique is the same as drilling glass or ceramic tile. Make a donut shaped 'dam' of clay, add a few drops of oil in the 'dam', then using a piece of tubing as a drill, and some SiC grit to grind your way through the blade. It works, and you don't wreck all your twist drills trying to make a hole.
 

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Hmmm, I had forgotten that "hack". Sounds interesting. Almost want to try it for the experience. Maybe in my spare time. Wink
 

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Well Mike, you see anything you want anyone to follow up on?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How about .30BR sized down to .250 outside and .210 inside? Will those necks work? View attachment 26140
I sure appreciate all the suggestions, some of which are really creative. And I learned at least one technique, where TinMan explained about boring a hole through steel with a piece of tubing and abrasive.

It appears to me that acquiring some .22 WMR brass is the best shot at a quick and dirty solution. Then for thicker walls on a tube, Francis' necking down solution is beautiful. The catch there, of course, is that you have to have numerous very specialized dies. Tom (TAJ), if you have those dies and are willing to make me up maybe half a dozen tubes, I'll find some way to say thanks. What I need is a piece with .250 or just under for the OD and 1 to 1 1/8" length.

Again, thanks for noodling on this one with me. I think it'd be a hoot to have 2-3 pieces of brass like the one in Francis' photo. Take 'em with hyou to your next rifle match and leave only those empties on the bench beside your gun after your relay is over. I bet you'd get some interesting questions.
 
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