Ruger Model 77 Triggerby
Michael Donaldson (aka Doc)
Webmasters note: This information isstrictly for reference purposes only and is not intended for use by anyoneother than a qualified gunsmith. The author, nor the webmaster willbe liable for any incidents or accidents that occur through the use ofthis information. In laymans terms, if you are not a qualifiedgunsmith DO NOT MESS with your trigger. Leave it to the professionals!
The Ruger 77 trigger is one of the easiest factory triggers to rework.However, alterations to any firearm should be done only by a qualifiedgunsmith. This information is strictly for reference only and is not intendedfor use by anyone other than a qualified gunsmith. (guess why I had toput that in?)
Ruger firearms are designed to be strong, reliable, and SAFE. In doingthis, they leave you with plenty of material to work with. In the model77 bolt action rifle there are 2 main areas of complaint, that would becreep and weight. A third area could be considered as trigger over-travel.
Creep equals the distance the trigger must travel before releasing thesear. Weight equals the amount of force required to compress the triggerin order to fire. And over-travel is the distance the trigger travels afterreleasing the sear. If any of these are out of balance, they will be detrimentalto the accuracy of ANY firearm. Ideally, the distance the trigger ‘creeps’is imperceptible, the weight is light enough so as to not distort one’shold on the firearm, and over-travel does not exist. With these definitionsis becomes apparent that trigger WEIGHTS should vary according to the intendedpurpose of the firearm. A crisp, 3 pound trigger is as absurd on a benchrest rifle, as a 2oz trigger is on a hunting rifle. Remember safety isalways #1. Keep the WEIGHT safe. All triggers should have minimal creepand no over-travel.
To fix the Ruger trigger one must understand its design. ‘Creep’ comesfrom the amount of trigger/sear engagement. Weight is a combination oftrigger angle and spring tension, over-travel comes from the free swingof the trigger after the sear releases.
1. Standard factory trigger/sear engagement is about .035-.045. It equalsthe depth of the sear notch. This means that the trigger must move thatentire distance before releasing the sear. Reducing this distance to .020will safely reduce the perceptible ‘creep.’
2. The top angle of the trigger is steep enough that you must actuallylift the sear in order to release it. Remember, the sear is already undertension from the bolt and firing pin. Increasing this angle to an even90 degrees allows the trigger to follow a more natural arc and defeat thelifting action. Only enough metal needs to be removed to fully engage thesear, or about .025.
3. Next, a slight 45 degree bevel on the lead angle of the trigger willdrastically increase the crispness of the trigger. Do only enough so asto extend perpendicularly forward about .005. This will actually help thesear to release, it is done on many custom 1911 triggers. With a .020 searnotch and the trigger done in this manner, you will still have a full .015engagement of the trigger to the sear.
4. Polish all parts and bearing surfaces.
5. There are two solutions to the over-travel problem. (1) You can drilla hole in the front top end of the trigger for a small set screw and adjustaccordingly. (2) You can drill a hole through the back of the trigger guard.The one in the trigger itself is theoretically better because it is supportedagainst the action itself. Whereas the trigger guard screw is actuallya third piece of connected metal. I have personally found no differenceaccept the trigger guard is easier to do and easier to set.
6. If the trigger and sear are wobbly because of the pins, simply purchasea couple of drill bits slightly larger that the existing holes, re-drill,cut off the bits and use them as pins. This is a key element when makingthe triggers extremely light.
7. I personally prefer the single stage triggers to the 2 stage triggerbecause my triggers are lighter than the 1st stage. You can actually pinthe 2 sections if you like, just replace the connector spring with a pin.After you have done one, you will understand the principles, and shouldhave no problem figuring the 2 stage. New springs are usually necessaryin order to get very light triggers.
Some weights that I would recommend for intended uses would be 2-16oz(less than 1 pound) for a BENCH gun. Start heavier so that as you progressyou can still feel the trigger. The ‘average’ hunter may not even realizethey have touched a 2oz bench trigger. These rifles are ONLY chamberedwhen aimed at the target, hence, they are not real conducive to huntingconditions. 16-40oz (1-2&1/2 pounds) on the average VARMINT gun. Mostvarmint hunting is done off of some form of rest where firearm is stabilizedin a safe direction. Finally, the average hunting rig should be at least2&1/2 pounds plus. These are just my suggestions and opinions.
GOOD LUCK and BE SAFE
Michael Donaldson (aka Doc)
Webmasters note: This information isstrictly for reference purposes only and is not intended for use by anyoneother than a qualified gunsmith. The author, nor the webmaster willbe liable for any incidents or accidents that occur through the use ofthis information. In laymans terms, if you are not a qualifiedgunsmith DO NOT MESS with your trigger. Leave it to the professionals!
The Ruger 77 trigger is one of the easiest factory triggers to rework.However, alterations to any firearm should be done only by a qualifiedgunsmith. This information is strictly for reference only and is not intendedfor use by anyone other than a qualified gunsmith. (guess why I had toput that in?)
Ruger firearms are designed to be strong, reliable, and SAFE. In doingthis, they leave you with plenty of material to work with. In the model77 bolt action rifle there are 2 main areas of complaint, that would becreep and weight. A third area could be considered as trigger over-travel.
Creep equals the distance the trigger must travel before releasing thesear. Weight equals the amount of force required to compress the triggerin order to fire. And over-travel is the distance the trigger travels afterreleasing the sear. If any of these are out of balance, they will be detrimentalto the accuracy of ANY firearm. Ideally, the distance the trigger ‘creeps’is imperceptible, the weight is light enough so as to not distort one’shold on the firearm, and over-travel does not exist. With these definitionsis becomes apparent that trigger WEIGHTS should vary according to the intendedpurpose of the firearm. A crisp, 3 pound trigger is as absurd on a benchrest rifle, as a 2oz trigger is on a hunting rifle. Remember safety isalways #1. Keep the WEIGHT safe. All triggers should have minimal creepand no over-travel.
To fix the Ruger trigger one must understand its design. ‘Creep’ comesfrom the amount of trigger/sear engagement. Weight is a combination oftrigger angle and spring tension, over-travel comes from the free swingof the trigger after the sear releases.
1. Standard factory trigger/sear engagement is about .035-.045. It equalsthe depth of the sear notch. This means that the trigger must move thatentire distance before releasing the sear. Reducing this distance to .020will safely reduce the perceptible ‘creep.’
2. The top angle of the trigger is steep enough that you must actuallylift the sear in order to release it. Remember, the sear is already undertension from the bolt and firing pin. Increasing this angle to an even90 degrees allows the trigger to follow a more natural arc and defeat thelifting action. Only enough metal needs to be removed to fully engage thesear, or about .025.
3. Next, a slight 45 degree bevel on the lead angle of the trigger willdrastically increase the crispness of the trigger. Do only enough so asto extend perpendicularly forward about .005. This will actually help thesear to release, it is done on many custom 1911 triggers. With a .020 searnotch and the trigger done in this manner, you will still have a full .015engagement of the trigger to the sear.
4. Polish all parts and bearing surfaces.
5. There are two solutions to the over-travel problem. (1) You can drilla hole in the front top end of the trigger for a small set screw and adjustaccordingly. (2) You can drill a hole through the back of the trigger guard.The one in the trigger itself is theoretically better because it is supportedagainst the action itself. Whereas the trigger guard screw is actuallya third piece of connected metal. I have personally found no differenceaccept the trigger guard is easier to do and easier to set.
6. If the trigger and sear are wobbly because of the pins, simply purchasea couple of drill bits slightly larger that the existing holes, re-drill,cut off the bits and use them as pins. This is a key element when makingthe triggers extremely light.
7. I personally prefer the single stage triggers to the 2 stage triggerbecause my triggers are lighter than the 1st stage. You can actually pinthe 2 sections if you like, just replace the connector spring with a pin.After you have done one, you will understand the principles, and shouldhave no problem figuring the 2 stage. New springs are usually necessaryin order to get very light triggers.
Some weights that I would recommend for intended uses would be 2-16oz(less than 1 pound) for a BENCH gun. Start heavier so that as you progressyou can still feel the trigger. The ‘average’ hunter may not even realizethey have touched a 2oz bench trigger. These rifles are ONLY chamberedwhen aimed at the target, hence, they are not real conducive to huntingconditions. 16-40oz (1-2&1/2 pounds) on the average VARMINT gun. Mostvarmint hunting is done off of some form of rest where firearm is stabilizedin a safe direction. Finally, the average hunting rig should be at least2&1/2 pounds plus. These are just my suggestions and opinions.
GOOD LUCK and BE SAFE
