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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay guys, I've read threads on switching barrels for a year now and about all the tricks. I can't get the barrel nut loose on a Stevens 200 and I'm ready to ship it to someone that's better at it than me. Yes, I realize that it's a sharp blow that breaks them loose, not a 16 pound sledge. But I've whacked the wrench with even a ball pein hammer and she won't budge. I'm afraid I'm going to tear the nut up or bend something in the process.

So, if someone wants to give 'er a try let me know. I don't have a local gunsmith or I would just take it there.

Sheesh, this is bad news!
 

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awww man, a ball peen hammer...what's up with that?
For a new barrel, you need a...HAMMER!!! not one of those little wimpy things

You know they say "if at first you don't succeed...get a bigger hammer".
That's not alwasy true, but in this case it probably is. Go for it.
 

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How you holdin it? Does your action wrench bracket the recoil lug? If you can stabilize the recoil lug, it helps. Works kind of like putting a double nut on a bolt for a lock. Comes off easier if you put wrenches on both nuts, not one nut and the bolt head. I've read of guys just taping the jaws of a big crescent and putting it on the lug with a nut wrench on the nut to get them off. We changed a 7 mag. 110 that was at least 12 years old the other day. Put the barrel in a padded bench vise so the action wrench (with cutout for the lug) was on the bench. Rapped the nut wrench with a foot long piece of 2x6 edgewise and it came off 1st time. Maybe the ol boy that torques them at the factory has gotten his muscles built up in the last few years, but just keep whacking it. Maybe some penetrating oil. If you mess up the nut, they are for sale at a few places on the net.
 

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Savage

The last Stevens I disasembled, did not even try to hold the barrel. The sporter barrels are so tapered they are hard to clamp down. I put soft sheet lead over the the jaws of a really big bench vise. Clamped the recoil lug and bit of the action in the vise jaws with the barrel sticking straight up. Used a three foot cheater bar on the barrel nut wrench. It came loose easily without any pounding or cussing.
 

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Yikes !!! Hammers???

Buy a clamp on action wrench, and make something simular to this....


This setup makes it almost too easy. I haven't used a barrel vise, wooden blocks or a hammer on any of them. I pulled all mine (12) and maybe another 10 or so for other guys. It take a few minutes to setup, about 2 seconds to break the action loose, a little pressure on the handle.. its loose.
The "trick" for a factory barrel..turn the action,not the nut.

Best part..no wreaked,twisted or marred parts.


PS.....I sell these things for $300...including the tools :D ( or you can make one out of a few scraps of 3/4" plywood)

Bill
 

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It is just a lock nut and it is locked against the lug...

Not the action. I use a large (quality) Crescent wrench, at least 12" and 15" is better, with tape on the lug and a little bit of the action to protect it. Lay the action on the carpeted floor and arrange it so you can put one foot on the Crescent and hold tension on the barrel nut wrench. A good sharp crack with a hammer on the barrel wrench does the trick. No force applied to the barrel or action. Not my idea as someone else posted it, but it works really slick and no damage to the unit.

I did debur the barrel nut wrench with a small file.

Load safe, shoot often.

P.S. I have action wrenches and a barrel vise and can make custom inserts for it, this just works better.
 

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Easy

I once had a barrel that I couldn't break loose with vises and hammers. After a little thought I tried this. The clamping force is between the barrel nut and the recoil lug. I clamped on a large adjustable wrench with aluminum shim to protect the lug, then put some weight on the flex handle It worked so easy I posted this method and photo on the old board a long time ago.

Bruce

 

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I've got a tool that fits over the recoil lug, rather than the action. Since it is locked against the lug and not the action, that seemed like the better place to hold. Let me know if you want it. And if you are clamping the barrel in blocks, put a bit of a painters tack cloth between the barrel and the blocks to keep it from turning. If you put together something like Bill in PA shows, my lug tool will work great with your barrel nut wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You guys are the greatest!

I'm going to try the cresent wrench on the carpet deal here this morning and see what happens. I'm supposed to be in the woods with a flintlock, but it's pouring down rain (maybe no venison for the Wisor family this year)...... I'll keep ya posted.

For those who asked, I'm in Clearfield, 2 miles off I80, just east of DuBois and north of State College.

Thanks guys.
 

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Norm, the carpet and crescent wrench deal works pretty good. I was sorta pulling your chain about the BIG hammer, but in fact, it does work. The thing is, I have a barrel vise that helps too. Also, it doesn't hurt to stand the barreled action up in a corner and let some Kroil or PB Blaster run down into the nut and threads for a day or two before you have at it again.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, I quit!

I just spun the teeth off my brand new Wheeler nut wrench on this thing! Please tell me that it's righty-tighty ~~ lefty loosy....correct?
I tried the cresent wrench on the carpeted floor deal and that what happened. Looks like I'm the proud owner of a sporter weight Steven 200 in 7mm08!

This is silly!
 

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chuck it in a lathe and turn the nut down or tape it off and get a cut on it with a dremel or cut off wheel.. not much to save now, the nuts are fairly easy to come by.
 

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Bummer Norm!

"This is silly!"

But in all fariness, I don't think Savage, or anyone else for that matter, intended for us to take the barrels off.

Some guys do the adjustable wrench thing, but you need to remember, all that pressure is on a little 1/8" key on the recoil lug and keyway in the receiver. Plus keeping the spanner square is tough to do on the floor.

If you notice on the gadget I made, the support for the muzzle end of the barrel is adjustable for height so I can level the BA out keeping the spanner square on the nut. If you angle the spanner, you run the chance of rip'n the teeth off.....:eek:

Bill
 

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Wrench

Too bad the savage wrench teeth failed. I have a SSS wrench and the steel seems to be hardened on that one as I have abused it trying to get them apart holding only by the barrel. Up until I figured out the recoil lug and action was the place to hold on. The dremel with a cutting disk will do it. Just wear some safety glasses when the dremmel disks come apart they fly all over. Are the teeth on the barrel nut stripped or only the wrench?
 
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